The Backpacker

Check this out guys.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOudtCaeCn0

Ha, since consistency in writing is missing, I am merely trying to fill gaps and thereby trying to cover everything I possibly can.

Here is the flipside! Just for my records.....

1. Nissan Sunny cars......I absolutely hate them!
2. Public toilets...too low!
3. Excess meat and fish...thats all they seem to eat!
4. No decent TEA or Coffee....Ha, nothing in comparison to the "chai" or "kaapi" Indian style!
5. Rice.....three times a day!
6. Noodles....NOT an alternative to rice! Oh, for a simple roti :-)

There is a better side to this also :-)

The excitement builds as the rains picks up speed. The air rushes in through the big, open windows and the train, after passing the first few kilometers through the shanty that inevitably springs up on the side of the railways, moves into more open grounds. Its green. Its clean. The little stagnant pools of water you see in passing are pretty with water lilies and lotus merrily co existing with the fishes... More than anything else, you can see the temples from between the cluster of trees. Suddenly, twenty minutes into the journey, you feel sleepy. The seats are not designed to stretch out comfortably, they are hard, wooden and functional and if you really must sleep, stretch over on the facing seat, it can be managed if you know how. No one will bother you and if you are traveling with the occasional Thai, chances are that he/she would be inevitably eating something: rice with shredded meat cooked in Holy Basil, rice with fish cooked in chilly and Holy Basil, or rice with fried egg (yes, with basil again) and drinking from a plastic bag with the aid of narrow straw. That was strange. Every where I went, I was given a glass of water (for that matter when you buy bottled water-Siam water is popular...costs 5THB and comes in a white plastic bottle.) and a narrow straw to drink from!!

If you dont fall asleep right away, stick your head out of the window for fantastic view of the countryside. In places, the sturdy shrubs press against the train and it feels as though the train is offending their home with its presence. They are quite purposeful, the shrubs and are not afraid of being ripped off by the speeding train. I made that one little mistake of standing by the door, quite unnecessary but out of habit, and got scratched by one such sturdy thing. It was then the whole new idea of the open window "opened". I wasnt missing much by looking out of the huge window and was probably safer there. Also the electric poles were very very close to the train so any attempt at sticking the leg out into the open space meant a collision with the poles, if the bushes didnt get you first.

The houses built around the countryside are very colourful with generous amounts of wood gone into its making. Many appear to be built on stilts for some odd reason, but perhaps due to the high ground water levels. Rivers meander through in gay abandon and paddy fields with merry farmers in pointed hats appear like a fairy tale. It was a good journey, rythmic and I didnt miss the chaos of the general compartments in Indian trains.

Just as the train approcaches Kanchanaburi, the geography changes. From the plain fields and ribbon rivers, it chanegs to undulating hills and gets more green. Suddenly there is a chill in the air, as though you have finally arrived. Its a good feeling to get off the train at this little place with much historic importance.

The train continued its journey to Nam Tok and I, along with 90 per cent of the BP's alighted at Kanchanaburi.

It was close to 12 pm. Hunger gnawed.

BangLumphu:

We returned to Bangkok when the evening had set in. I had saved myself the trouble of findind transport to Ayuthaya and back, made a friend in the process. Now Pari was worried about my hotel accomodation, but I wasnt. I mean, I was willing to spend the night at the railway station if required, it didnt really matter to me. However she dropped me off at some point, i dont remember which, but from where I paid 8baht for a bus ride to Bang Lumphu. Ah, it was heaven! This is what is also known in the backpackers circles as the "mecca" of backpackers.
After seeking out a backpacking couple who pointed out the right way to the Mecca, I found the Star Dome, with free internet facility...for 350 THB. Fair deal, I thought and by then I was sort of tired...I would be, hadnt slept a wink for two nights straight!

A quick shower (works miracles for a tired body) and was soon out to explore the night in the streets of Bang Lumphu, look for something not found else where.

It is true what is said of the BP community. They are like the 'fly-by-night' shops, come up for a short time, make friends with their immideate environs and move on...exchange few words with other BPs, share a drink in of the many roadside bars, share the stories fo the trails and move on. They dont make friends, they dont attach emotions...they come and they go...some come back again.

I did the same. Walked the streets that come alive in the nights...No. Its not the same as Silom and its famous or rather infamous Patpong. This place is a world in itself. It caters solely to the BP's. There are money exchanges, hotels, internet cafes, massage parlous and food joints in a straight row...all for the visitors. You will hardly find "family" types here. Perhaps they stick to the better places and thus miss the pulse that essentially makes Bangkok a place BP's love to come back to. I loved the anonymity...and to my surprise I found that I was the only single Indian woman backapcker around...people I struck conversations with readily told me it was a change to see Indian women traveling alone! Either I didnt see any of my kind or they didnt, but whatever it was, I enjoyed the freedom adn the security in the unfamiliar streets....

Thai food is appealing, no doubt, when treated as a luxury. Perhaps a more affluent visitor opting for the stay-breakfast option at regular hotels would be happy to eat three common Thai meals during their stay in Thailand. But when you have decided, like I did, to eat only Thai food during my entire stay, (and i had only had three such meals), the smell of fried food coming from the stalls and hittign your nose quite strongly, can shaken the strongest resolve. However, not the one to give up easily, I sat down to a meal by the roadside...well, can harldy find a regular hotel where you order meals, for one, the night shops flood the streets and its hard to look behind the rows of clothes and the thick fumes of frying meat!

A Thai meal that cost me 20THB was one of the spiciest I had eaten. By comparison, the break fast at airport and lunch with Pari was mere nothing...

Served with rice was a curry of fish...no, I have no idea what the fish was, a as extra helping, another kind of fish was added and something else. Everything was spicy...but there is something that serves as a balm. The water. I dont know why, Thai's drink water through a narrow straw...I gulped of course, I couldnt sip milli liters of ice cold water when my tongue and throat was on fire, could i? There was a peculair taste to the fish...later I learnt it was courtesy the Holy Basil..Tulasi!

The night at Star Dome was more or less like a stop...sleep hardly came...bands kept playing through the night...it was a cheerful place, savouring every minute of their short life, making merry...I cursed, however...I needed rest.

I think I managed four hours before I woke up and realised I needed to hurry to the train station on the other side of the river.

I managed. When I left the key at the counter, the sky was just getting light. The early morning streets had the same cheer in them, although a bit empty, but there was determination to return to its happy self in a few hours!

I made it on time. I was back at Tha Phra Chand...and going someplace at last :-)

Day 1: A simple matter of getting on to the flight, sitting still waiting for the smiling Thai air hostess to serve food and drinks, nap a bit, and finally hours after the flight has taken off from Dubai, land in another part of the world, some three hours ahead of my normal time. A place totally alien to me. Thailand, the Land of Smiles.

It was all simple, really. I mean, goin away is really simple. I went away to Thailand without a clue. I mean, I knew things about Thailand, as would every reader of google. But actually being there, alone, is another thing altogether.

I wasnt prepared for anything,. at the same time, prepared for everything. I cant explain that. When I got off the plane at Bangkok,(Suwarnabhumi pronounced Su-wana-poon) a singularly inspiring piece of engineering, I was faced with many different feelings. Euphoria, above everything. But all that had to wait till I actually got out of the airport. I needed my visa, needed a shower and change...rememebr I was going to backpack, had no time to waste, had to pack in as much as I could in five days and I wasnt going to check into a hotel to relax and change in leisure. A backpacker does not fancy hotels anyway, for them hotels are merely places to sleep the night if a railway station or a bus station is not in vicinity!! Oh alright, let me not get away from tracks.

A quick change at the airport, quicker steps to the visa counter, a thousand smiles, a thousand baht, one pic, and lo, my visa was stamped. I was officially in Thailand now. The airport itself is a mini-Budhist town and even before tourists in large groups exited the gates, their camera clicked and clicked, not missing anything. I had no time to lose.

First I need to eat. Well, I didnt know when my next meal would come from and what would be in store for me, so I decided to have breakfast at the airport. Google had suggested Magic Food Court as the cheapest option at the airport but a walk around the food courts threw up many surprises. There were far cheaper options, but I wasnt to know the comparison till I had eaten at the Magic Food Court. By the time I did, I was so full. The first ever meal in Thailand consited of rice noodles (the flat broad ones), with sweet and spicy sauce, tofu, pork, csprouts, herbs i had never seen or heard of (or tasted before). I never got the name of the dish but I cant say I particularly loved it...despite having made up my mind to enjoy the last grin of Thai rice in every meal.

Outside of the Magic Court is the exit. This is where you can get a bus to the City. Airport Express operates from ehre at regular intervals. The buses are named..AE 1, AE 2, AE3. My mind was fixed on getting out of the city as fast as I could and I knew (google) that a train left Thonburi station at 1.50 pm for Kanchanaburi, which is where I had wanted to go. However it was early. It was just about 8 am and I had plenty of time. I bought a ticket: 150 baht. Standar fare. There were options, of course, but taxis are very expensive and i saw no point in spending extra to go the same place I could go to in less.

The bus saw me off at Sanam Luang, its last stop, in close proximity to the TAT office, to the ferry that would take me across to Thonburi.

The ride from the airport was smooth, my first connection with the land. So totally different from my own familiar territory. The bus appeared to have been commisoned soley for the purpose of shuttling backpacker such as I. There wasnt any group of people, no tourists, no family-style visitors...just few backpackers, scattered over the bus, each with a map or a Lonely Planet guide book, looking as content as possible for the 75 minutes ride into the city. I enjoyed the feeling of not knowing where i was going, more than the Thai songs that played loudly, more than the Thainglish the driver spoke, eager to convey to me the suprises of his country. One curious backpacker with several tatoos (hence backpackers will be referred as BP. Baht as THB), asualted me with a barrage of questions, wanting to know why as a single Indian woman, I was on my own. Indians were many, holidaying of making money, but he had, he told me honestly, not come across a single Indian woman BP in Thailand....and he had been two months on the trails already. He came once in two years.

Well, hurrah to the new breed of Indian BP's. Keep pattaya off your itenarary, he told me with a serious face. If you like the treks, you are in the 'league of BPs that would not like the seedy beach." I took his word for it.

He left before I could say goodbye at Sanam Luang.

Sanam Luang is a quiet, cool and shady area and shows the city in good light. An eager tuk-tuk wallah fell on me with much force.

I smiled. He smiled even wider. Thonburi, I told him, gesturing at the tuk-tuk and asking him how much it would cost.

He had ideas...and he spoke a bit of English. He suggested going to the TAT office nearby, get myself an itenarary or probably even a ticket, and the correct information. He kindly hailed another tuk-tuk and spoke rapidly in Thai. In the end, it was agreed that I would pay the tuk-tuk wallah 10THB for a ride to the TAT office and if I didnt like their plans, I would be shown three sights nearby (all Budha of course) for an additional 10THB.

I suppose it was a good deal and tuk-tuks were the best way to see the city. They make a noise that can beat their Indian counterparts hands down, but it was more exciting to ride on a open tuk-tuk. The young driver put in all his energy, drove rapidly through the clean roads to the office, stopping enroute at 7/11 (the convenience stores all over Thailand) for coffee (bought him one too. The cost of coffee at 7/11 is 10 THB), and shot off to the office.

I drew a blank there. I didnt want their itenarary, didnt want to be stuck with their brood of boring family tourists. Refusing to visit the Sleeping Budha, i asked him to drive me to Tha Phra Chand where I could catch a ferry to Thonburi on the other side of the river. It was the most sensible thing to do anyway.

Tha Phra Chand is in close proximity to the Grand Palace, the university, the Supreme Court and the office of the attorney general, but has its own presence as the point of ferry-boarding. It is busy.

While looking for a washroom, I met Mrs Supawadee Maspong. I sought her out of the hundred of other people milling about, because she looked like she knew English. I had to make myself understood that I needed a loo.

Yes, She knew English. She was nice and friendly, in a deep maroon skirt and blouse, Thai style with a single strand of pearl necklace. She knew where to find a loo. We walked backwards, towards the pier and we got talking.

She was heading to Ayuthya, the former capital of Thailand, a temple town, and asked if i would like to come along. I hated to miss the train to kanchanaburi and ayuthya did not feature on my plans but heck, why not? I didnt have a destination, and here was a free ride (and back too maybe). I could always take the early morning train.

So to Ayutya I went with her. Mrs Supawadee Maspong (I called her Pari) happened to be the Chief Provincial Public Prosecutor of Ayuthya Province!

Meandering through the heavy traffic, we reached Ayuthya through the expressway after paying tolls at four different booths (total about 90THB). Thats how I reached Ayuthya.