The Backpacker

After hours of sailing, Rinca Island came into view. 'Numb and stoned' Mathias got us all excited (after some more coffee) with stories of Komodos and wished that we were lucky enough to find the dragons easily. We pulled up to the quay that jutted out into the lagoon created between two islands close to each other. We were no more on the open sea, but suddenly found ourself surrounded by thick mangrove forests. We alighted and were swamped with mosquitoes. Mathias has warned us about the mosquitoes, but it didnt prepare us for the ...... seemed like the mosquitoes, the size of spiders, were wrecking vengence. They were out for blood! I may have not been prepared for the sun, but I was for the mosquitoes...having had the good sense to start on anti-malarial tablets two weeks before I began my journey to Indonesia. 

Riding the waves in an old wooden boat on the unpredictable Indonesian sea is exciting. While I sipped coffee, the crew got busy with making lunch. This was going to be completely 'local' experience and for once I was glad. Mathias tried to get the Latvian family interested with infomration on local culture and stories of Manggarai families, but I noticed he didnt have many takers. From snatches of his mostly one-sided conversation accompanied by excited gestures, I understood that LBJ, on the West Manggarai regency of Flores was an extremely beautiful place, with many spectacular sights and adventurous trails. Mathias told us that Denpasar (Bali) as as far as his knowldge went, for he had never set foot on central Jawa (read Jakarta)_ he didnt regret it of course, Labuan Bajo was the most beautiful place on earth, he said. Looking at the small green islands we passed by, I was inclined to agree with him.

Our thoughts rested on what was waiting for us at Rinca Island, our stop for the night and our first meeting with the dragons. All of us had braved the odds so that we could get up close with the Komodos and Mathias was quite excited over the prospect of seeing the dragons again.

Few nautical miles into the sea, lunch was served. Mathais hovered around the table, "waiting" on us...helping us with the spread! The 'spread' included rice (I thought it need some cooking), vegetable soup (carrots, cabbage, potatoes and beans boiled in water and NOT flavoured), noodles and fish topped with ripe tomatoes. All of us did enjoy the meal, I guess it has something to do with the the sea breeze or the sun or simply the beauty of Indoesia but we polished off the last grain. This meal was followed by some more coffee. I wasnt sure if so much coffee was good, especially since it was hot, but I downed a good measure anyway! Post lunch, my fellow- mates decided to nap, while I allowed myself the lucury of motoring the boat. There was no 'traffic' so to speak and other than the whirlpools, there was nothing much to worry about. The crew were only glad to let me try...anything to break the monotony of the sea they were used to. One member of the crew kept an eye for the whirlpools, while the 'captain' helped me steer his boat along! Mind, the boat is NOT equipped with modern electrobic gadgets that display the location and time and such, these boats were motored instinctively. I suppose this comes with years of practice, the crew instinctively knew when we left the course. It was beyond me, but I managed to interest the Latvian family who suddenly decided that watching a fellow traveler captaining a boat was far more interesting than a shut eye!

We began our voyage! Mathias, three young boys who formed the 'crew', the Latvian family and I were going to be  stuck to each other for the next few days, through rain and storm and Komodos... The morning was clear, the sea calm and anticipation high. The wooden boat, that like its furniture on board had seen better days, took off, amidst the roar of the engine. We settled down on the wooden benches, placed around the wooden table (which was to serve as the 'dining' table). Mathias began his narration but finding no interested audience, quickly shut up and began to look around for coffee. Ever since I stepped on Indonesian soil several days before, I had come to change my idea about coffee. I now belived that if coffee was to have a decent place among Indonesian beverage, then it had to be really strong, black and bitter...not like the Bintang, but worse.

I sat on the bow, sipping the bitter concotion, getting used to the boat's rythm, balancing myself quite well while Amanda and her mother applied sun tan lotion. I found that particularly interesting. I was convinced that brown skin never tanned and the sun couldnt affect it in any way. I managed to smile to myself too and then busied myself with the scenary unfolding infront of me. This was going to be fun, so long as there was coffee, the boat moved over the waters and skies remained clear, I could handle the churning and the rolling.

I am a water person!

 I am starting this entry from Labuan Bajo, a small town in West Flores, an hour and half flying distance away from Bali. I was here because I wanted to see the Komodo Dragons. When I boarded the ancient 30-seater plane at Bali, it did occur to me that for a holiday, I was seeking thrill more than relaxation, but then I guess, adrenaline shots helped me relax and I had been dreaming of dragons for a while.

For a USD 400 I had managed to book myself the Komodo Island tour, but being a single traveler meant I would have to share the trip with a group of strangers. I was OK with it, seeing that I had no other choice anyway. Instinctively I knew this would be one of those trips that would involve more smiles and gestures than any real talking, unless I was really lucky and got a group of people who spoke my tongue.

When I landed at Labuan Bajo, after a scary, yet uneventful flight, I was sure I had made the right decision. For one, I had a nice video shots of small islands dotting the sea (the planes dont fly very high and if the weather holds on a clear day, with a really good cam, you can shoot clear pictures of the islands).

Thrity people descended from the aircraft, claimed their baggage that rested in the cockpit (!!) and I wasnt surpised to note that I was the only Indian (leave alone being an Indian Female) amongst the other pleasure seekers that included Latvians, Poles, Russians, British and Germans. My first picture (the one you see here) was shot by a Pole, traveling in a group of two, and visiting Labuan Bajo for the dragons and the dive.

The airport deserves a mention. This was the smallest airport I have seen, and also the most convenient one. No standing up in queues, no security checks, no waiting to claim to baggage...just walk through the single big hall and out into the arms of your guide waiting to escort you (if you have booked a tour. If it is the first time, it is advisable to book in advance, lodging options are limited in this tiny town and is always full, according to what my guide Mathias told me later).

It was then I met my co-travelers for the Komodo Island trip. Four Latvians.
Red-faced Amanda with her parents and a friend named Peteris. (Over the next two days of gruelling boat ride in the sea, I only managed to share not more than a couple of sentences with Amanda, very little with Peteris and none at all with Amanda's parents, who didnt speak English. 

Past the lovely green countryside, we bumped over narrow roads to arrive at the port, where our fishing boat-turned-house boat stood. We stopped briefly at the tourism office (yes, there is such a thing as a tourism office here, a smallish room with few maps, a table, no chair for visitors to sit down and some brochures advertising diving/snorkeling trips). I suppose people didnt stop by too long at the tourism office, and if they did stop at all, it was only to seek directions or get information about hiring diving gear.

After the customary stop, we headed to the Port. I remembered later that I should have had the good sense to pack snaks for the trip, but seeing that it was a all-paid trip including food/board-on-boat package, I decided against this, determined to survive on what was given. If there was nothing, I would do with nothing. I wasnt on a luxury liner nor did I care that I would have to eat food cooked on kerosene stoves on the boat.

The journey had begun.

When I decided to break away from the monotony of work and settle upon Indonesia, little did I know I was begining a life long romance with the islands and the sea.   

But I am back, heck, I was back two months ago, but feels as if something is missing! The sea, to begin with...and the Indonesian Coffee (Jawa), the temples, the pythons, the monkeys, Durian (!!!), Lumpiahs and the bubur and nasi goreng, the becaks and the mayhem on the Poppy Street in Bali...