The Backpacker

Pookot Lake

You may wonder why I have never written about lakes before, seeing that I have spent half my life (or nearly so) in and about lakes, sea and rivers (not to mention an occasional dam). In fact when I was very young, I even took to swimming in a river and nearly drowned. That beastly river near Calicut (Kerala) nearly took away my life. But you get the drift. I am a water- girl, among other things.

So with a colorful history behind me, I proceeded to this lake. Well, lakes in general are innocent. They are less wild than the rivers and more serene than the sea. In comparison to a dam, they are like kittens. And this lake was above all suspicion.

To give a brief history of this one. Pookot Lake in Waynad district in Kerala (southern India) is perhaps one of the largest fresh water lakes in the country. It sits comfortably in the lap of green hills and thick foliage, two thousand meters above sea level, half way between Calicut and Sulthans Battery in a place named Vythiri, which records the second highest rainfall in India after Chirpunji.

So you see it has a lot going for it. And not one negative. It has everything one can hope for in a lake decent lake __deep calm waters, boats, rolling hills, chirping birds, water lilies….everything. There is also an aquarium where you can watch fish lazily swim in captivity if your tired of the woods. An ideal place to put up ones feet and give in to a short peaceful slumber.

How I reached here was interesting. I had been off to Calicut from Sulthan’s Battery one day (a three hour journey). As we reached Vythiri, the bus was grounded. Now, being grounded in Vythiri is no sin. Thousands of vehicles ply on the road. But that day, we were told there had been a mishap downhill. Understand this. Downhill through 36 hairpin bends is no laughing matter especially if the roads are no wider than your palms and there is a deep drop on either side. A mishap on a turn and the vehicles line up for miles. To top it all it was a cold misty day, not uncommon, but it certainly made going tough.

Many of the locals decided to walk some distance to keep the blood flowing. Likewise some distance away the road branched off from the main road and went right, on which I walked. A board bearing the name ‘Pookot’ appeared behind a cloud of mist so I carried on. I remember some footsteps behind me as well.

That is how I reached this lake. I have never regretted the walk or even the short mishap in the water. I am coming to that.

People, as you know, always want something to remind them of the places they have visited. So it happened that this bloke was trying to shoot a video of this pretty lake, but upon seeing me (I don’t blame him though!!) decided to zero in on me.

That was also the time when I had passed out of law school (you bet I am not a spitting image of justice but I did drag my feet through the marble floors of the law school!!) and was bursting with ideas of a freedom and right to privacy. So when this guy insisted on having me in every shot, I lost it.

Also remember that paddle boats are not best suited for racing and are known to lose their balance at the drop of a pin. The bloke and his offending family had the advantage of being in a row boat. So when I finally pulled up beside them and saw him grinning very stupidly, I saw red, or rather green and blue (green being his shirt and blue his pants). My mind told me anyone with that combination on him was trouble. He was stupid alright. When I pulled up alongside, he actually leaned across to show me my pictures, looking pleased.

First. I hated his choice of colors. Second: I hated his grin. Third: He was a lousy videographer. Anyone who could make me look like a sheep shorn of its wooly coating had no right to be a videographer.

Without a thought I snatched his stuff and with a curse was about to throw it into the lake when my paddle boat shifted.

The rest like I said is history. The lifeguard later told me, between giggles and frown that he has never seen anyone wetter than I was after I had to be pulled up from the lake with water lilies sticking in my hair. The consolation was that the video camera was lost for good.

It was also then I decided that lakes were deceptive. Now I do not mind much if someone is taking my pictures. Law and ideals have long gone. If it helps any silly photographer, I would even go as far as posing. So long as there is no resemblence to a sheep.

The snow had just decided to stop falling as I arrived. I cannot say it bode well for my plans of building a giant snowman, but it certainly convinced me that had I arrived a better time, I should have been lucky enough to find a place to stay. You see people all over the world love snow and any hint that the cottony white stuff was about to make an appearance, then the whole world arrived in hordes to welcome it. And Shimla, even on a non-snowy day has enough to draw people to its cold hills and apple orchards.

That roughly translates into “no vacancy” boards outsides the hotels and boarding houses and a cheery faced guard in heavy woolens points at the other side of the road and goes back to his tea by the hearth.

But I have a backpacker’s optimism. That universal law of never to quit trying till you find a fire to warm your heart applies to me more than anyone I know. If the hotels do not let you in, people certainly do. It is a matter of finding someone who will. I did.

That is how I spent my first night in Shimla.

It was dark when I arrived and darker the next morning. There was not a whisper of activity at 5 am, except for a barking dog rudely awakened by a passing horse cart. There are mind boggling places around Shimla, all beautiful and bountiful in their offering. It is sometimes hard to separate the roads from the orchards, but no one complains. An occasional juicy apple appropriated from the tree keeps the spirits up as you meander through undulating hills robed in pine and cedar forests, providing wonderful views of wide floored valleys and the magnificent Himalayas.

There is another way of doing this too. Hire a taxi or book a tour on the Himachal tourism bus. This way you will only miss the pilfered apples. Here are the few places I visited. I am sure you will love them too. But don’t take my word for it. Explore Shimla your way. It is fun. Remember that plastic is banned here.

Wild Flower Hall: 12 km (7.4 miles) from the Shimla bus stand towards Kufri stands this elegant monument of the past. Wild Flower Hall sits at an altitude of 2,498 m (7,400 ft), currently serving as a hotel warming the cold visitors.

Kasauli: If Shimla is your starting point, then you have to cover 80 kms to this place. However you can arrive directly to Kasauli from where ever you are. (It is one of the most popular stations in India. You can climb away from Kalka towards Shimla (12 km) along a hiking trail. Or you can arrive from Dharampur, one of the stops on the Kalka-Shimla line. (And I won’t get into the Kalka Express just yet.) It is a different story altogather.

There is the Mall, the Museum, Summer Hill, Chadwick Falls, Prospect Hill, Sanjauli, Temples, Daranghati Sanctuary that can keep you rooted for a good three days if you hurry (precisely what I did) and then go away to Dalhousie or Kullu, Manali for a change of scene. For people with time on their hands and resources, there are plenty of options such as golf and fishing.

Golf has never featured on my list of “must do” anyway.

How to arrive here:

Shimla is connected by daily Vayudoot flights from Delhi and Kullu. The airport is at Jubbarhatti, is 23 km from Shimla. Indian Airlines flies to Jubbarhatti regularly.

It is connected by road with Kalka, Chandigarh, Delhi, Amritsar, Jammu and with many towns in Punjab, Uttar Pradesh and Haryana. Other destinations in the circuit, namely Kasauli, Solan, Barog, Chail, Narkanda, Rampur and Sarahan are also well served with all weather roads. Taxis, buses and coaches are available at Shimla, and other places for individual and group excursions.

A broad gauge railway line connects Shimla upto Kalka and after that by a narrow line from where a small train usually called toy train. Kalka to Shimla is 95 km and though the journey takes about 6 hours, the train winds its way through 103 tunnels, and some picturesque scenery.

All that glitters...is GOLD

Three features distinguish Brunei from other holiday destinations. It’s thriving oil trade, age old Sultanate rule and their colorful festivals. If these are not reasons enough to encourage you to visit Brunei, then there is more: Water Villages at Kampong Ayer. A walk along the Bruenii River and you will see what makes this tiny state in the northwest coast of Borneo and bordering Malaysian state of Sarawak special.

Here everything is well, different__a contrast of sorts. The water villages entirely comprises of houses built on stilts over the Brunei River, despite the fact that people here have the highest per capita income in the world!! You can reach here by boats or through a complex maze of wooden bridges and roam at leisure indulging in sightseeing. Naturally, houses on stilts are not an everyday affair. (Ignore the clothes hanging outside to dry.) Once that is established, walk about the capital city.

Bandar Seri Begawan has everything a tourist would hope for. The roads are well laid out and clean. In other words, Brunei sparkles. Swanky shopping malls (Yayasan being the biggest) rub shoulders with magnificent mosques symbolizing the strong faith and money, such as Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque which dominates the city. You also get to see more gold, marble (Italian) and ceramic tiles in one place than you ever seen before!! Walking about is a pretty good option here, provided you are wearing light cotton dresses and know what signs to make. Thumb rule. Do not use your thumb to hail a taxi or clap to get attention. What you must do instead is make a T-sign with your palm facing down and your forefinger pointing at the centre. It is corny, but the only way to stop a cab. No one complains and it works.

Hire a taxi for a visit to the Tasek Recreational Park. It is old (never refer to it that way) but the beautiful gardens and flowers manages to add life to it. There is also an 8 m high wall for those who are looking for ways to hone their skills. It is popular with naughty children. Surprisingly, there is a delightful jungle walk, complete with pools and waterfalls minutes from the capital at Wasai Kandal (the names here are quite a mouthful__ like their local delicacy satay) after which you could wander away to the Laboi Lake, a still, swampy, eerie pond. Good for the soul. In fact there are so many pools and waterfalls in close proximity to each other that it would be easier to discover it yourself. More than the trails, the names confuse. God knows you cannot ask your way out. There are clumps of bamboos growing all around too.

But if you are looking for a more adventurous journey, then follow the Headhunters' Trail from Limbang to Mulu. You will arrive at your destination after a ‘temuai’ (longboat) travel, ride on a local bus and several hours trekking through the jungle in the national park. Stay in the local longhouse or national park hostel (the former is suggested). The high point of the longboat travel is that you can hop on and off the boat at low river stretches and dance in the dense forests. It is supposed to help relieve stress. If you are looking for more outdoor recreation, then Ulu Temburong National Park is just the place, although it is accessible only by longboats, which is just as well as it helps maintain that sense of adventure. Also the Peradayan Forest Recreation Park will be of interest because of its caves and rock formations.

The park includes the 410 m high twin hills Bukit Peradayan and Bukit Patoi. Like the jungles, the beaches are equally alluring with long stretches of warm golden sands in Kuala Belait or Seri districts. In Jerudong, you can even enjoy fish in the numerous stalls or buy traditional items like brass cannons, kris, intricate basketry, miniature boats and gongs for throwaway prices. Community events are held with great pomp and show at Taman Mini Perayaan Kampong Parit, 26 km from the capital. It features mini replicas of dwellings that represent rural Brunei and Kampong Ayer complete with forests and waterfalls.

Community events and festivals are often held here, such as the Sultan's birthday celebration. Try to participate in one of those. The fish is excellent and are the meats. However they do not give out the recipes.

If you have had your fill of the jungles and walks, indulge in some historic site seeing. Begin with the Royal Regalia Building in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan which houses a collection of royal regalia, including the royal chariot, gold and silver ceremonial armoury and jewel-encrusted crowns. There is also an exhibition which fully documents the history of the constitution of Brunei Darussalam. In Bruneii people believe that all which glitters is gold. This you will find true, especially in the case of Lapau, a magnificent building within Bandar Seri Begawan with an exquisite golden dome. Traditional ‘glittering’ royal ceremonies are normally held here. Accommodation is not a problem in this sultanate.

There is everything to suit the traveler. However, The Empire Hotel and Country Club on the untouched shores serenaded by the waters of the South China Sea and Sheraton Utama Hotel (Seri Begawan) do take the cake, both for their ambience and style. But budget traveler can put aside their fears.

There are plenty of smaller-budget options available such as the Crown Princess and the Capital Hotel (all in Darussalaam) which have excellent facilities. Here, hospitality is a way of life. And so are the festivals. Here they find an important meaning as “religious celebrations” or mark the anniversaries of important historic event. However among the important celebrations is Hari Raya Haji (end of Ramadan). Being a Muslim country, Brunei celebrates all the festivals of Islam like Eid and Ramadan.

The month of Ramadan is most important and most of the Muslim populace goes on daily fast. Chinese community celebrates the Lunar New Year for 15 days in January/February with sumptuous feast. It is also the time to offer gifts to youngsters, given mostly in a red packet, the ang pow, containing money that symbolizes health and prosperity. It is not surprising that with all the blessings and the ang pow, Brunei is keeping up to its name!!

What you should know

Getting around: It is easy __ with the innumerable metered, self or chauffeur-driven taxis and buses that operate regular-as-clockwork from 6.30 am. Airport taxis and taxis in most hotels and shopping centers are available. Fares are metered. Tipping is optional. Water taxi services are available to Kampong Ayer, with stations at Jalan Kianggeh and Jalan McArthur. Fares are negotiable. Regular water taxi and boat services also ply between Bandar Seri Begawan and Bangar (in Temburong), Limbang (in Sarawak), Labuan and some towns in the Malaysian state of Sabah. City tour packages are also available.

Food: They come in many styles such as the hawker-style, stand up or sit down, walk-about, indoor, outdoor and even steamboat-style!! Take your pick. Hawker centers offer fine local delicacies at very reasonable prices. Here you can find everything including satay, noodles, rice, whole roasted chickens, grilled fish and steamboats. A leisurely walk along the Brunei River in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan with a take-away sushi can make it taste like heaven. The Persiaran Damuan Park on Jalan Tutong is famous for its steamboat-dinners. The indoor hawker centre in Gadong offers a variety of food from the Far East to the Orient. Fast food has caught on. Pizza Hut, KFC and MacDonalds all have outlets in the city and at Jerudong Park. Jollibee, Sugar Bun and Express Burger are local equivalents. Public sale and consumption of alcohol is prohibited by law and restaurants do not sell alcohol.

Stay: Currency is Brunei dollars. Accommodations to suit all budgets are available the lowest being USD 10 (does not come with any assured safety for your bags) and highest USD 300.

Visa/Travel: Required by all except for US nationals (up to 90 days); UK, Germany and Greece nationals (up to 30 days), Belgium, Denmark, France, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Canada, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Liechtenstein, Maldives, Norway, Philippines, Switzerland and Thai nationals (up to 14 days). Brunei is connected by air to almost all the countries. You can also arrive by road from Sarawak.

Religion: Two-thirds of population is of Malay origin, the important minority ethnic group being Chinese.

Season: Brunei doesn't have marked wet and dry seasons making it tourist friendly at all times.