The Backpacker

All that glitters...is GOLD

Three features distinguish Brunei from other holiday destinations. It’s thriving oil trade, age old Sultanate rule and their colorful festivals. If these are not reasons enough to encourage you to visit Brunei, then there is more: Water Villages at Kampong Ayer. A walk along the Bruenii River and you will see what makes this tiny state in the northwest coast of Borneo and bordering Malaysian state of Sarawak special.

Here everything is well, different__a contrast of sorts. The water villages entirely comprises of houses built on stilts over the Brunei River, despite the fact that people here have the highest per capita income in the world!! You can reach here by boats or through a complex maze of wooden bridges and roam at leisure indulging in sightseeing. Naturally, houses on stilts are not an everyday affair. (Ignore the clothes hanging outside to dry.) Once that is established, walk about the capital city.

Bandar Seri Begawan has everything a tourist would hope for. The roads are well laid out and clean. In other words, Brunei sparkles. Swanky shopping malls (Yayasan being the biggest) rub shoulders with magnificent mosques symbolizing the strong faith and money, such as Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque which dominates the city. You also get to see more gold, marble (Italian) and ceramic tiles in one place than you ever seen before!! Walking about is a pretty good option here, provided you are wearing light cotton dresses and know what signs to make. Thumb rule. Do not use your thumb to hail a taxi or clap to get attention. What you must do instead is make a T-sign with your palm facing down and your forefinger pointing at the centre. It is corny, but the only way to stop a cab. No one complains and it works.

Hire a taxi for a visit to the Tasek Recreational Park. It is old (never refer to it that way) but the beautiful gardens and flowers manages to add life to it. There is also an 8 m high wall for those who are looking for ways to hone their skills. It is popular with naughty children. Surprisingly, there is a delightful jungle walk, complete with pools and waterfalls minutes from the capital at Wasai Kandal (the names here are quite a mouthful__ like their local delicacy satay) after which you could wander away to the Laboi Lake, a still, swampy, eerie pond. Good for the soul. In fact there are so many pools and waterfalls in close proximity to each other that it would be easier to discover it yourself. More than the trails, the names confuse. God knows you cannot ask your way out. There are clumps of bamboos growing all around too.

But if you are looking for a more adventurous journey, then follow the Headhunters' Trail from Limbang to Mulu. You will arrive at your destination after a ‘temuai’ (longboat) travel, ride on a local bus and several hours trekking through the jungle in the national park. Stay in the local longhouse or national park hostel (the former is suggested). The high point of the longboat travel is that you can hop on and off the boat at low river stretches and dance in the dense forests. It is supposed to help relieve stress. If you are looking for more outdoor recreation, then Ulu Temburong National Park is just the place, although it is accessible only by longboats, which is just as well as it helps maintain that sense of adventure. Also the Peradayan Forest Recreation Park will be of interest because of its caves and rock formations.

The park includes the 410 m high twin hills Bukit Peradayan and Bukit Patoi. Like the jungles, the beaches are equally alluring with long stretches of warm golden sands in Kuala Belait or Seri districts. In Jerudong, you can even enjoy fish in the numerous stalls or buy traditional items like brass cannons, kris, intricate basketry, miniature boats and gongs for throwaway prices. Community events are held with great pomp and show at Taman Mini Perayaan Kampong Parit, 26 km from the capital. It features mini replicas of dwellings that represent rural Brunei and Kampong Ayer complete with forests and waterfalls.

Community events and festivals are often held here, such as the Sultan's birthday celebration. Try to participate in one of those. The fish is excellent and are the meats. However they do not give out the recipes.

If you have had your fill of the jungles and walks, indulge in some historic site seeing. Begin with the Royal Regalia Building in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan which houses a collection of royal regalia, including the royal chariot, gold and silver ceremonial armoury and jewel-encrusted crowns. There is also an exhibition which fully documents the history of the constitution of Brunei Darussalam. In Bruneii people believe that all which glitters is gold. This you will find true, especially in the case of Lapau, a magnificent building within Bandar Seri Begawan with an exquisite golden dome. Traditional ‘glittering’ royal ceremonies are normally held here. Accommodation is not a problem in this sultanate.

There is everything to suit the traveler. However, The Empire Hotel and Country Club on the untouched shores serenaded by the waters of the South China Sea and Sheraton Utama Hotel (Seri Begawan) do take the cake, both for their ambience and style. But budget traveler can put aside their fears.

There are plenty of smaller-budget options available such as the Crown Princess and the Capital Hotel (all in Darussalaam) which have excellent facilities. Here, hospitality is a way of life. And so are the festivals. Here they find an important meaning as “religious celebrations” or mark the anniversaries of important historic event. However among the important celebrations is Hari Raya Haji (end of Ramadan). Being a Muslim country, Brunei celebrates all the festivals of Islam like Eid and Ramadan.

The month of Ramadan is most important and most of the Muslim populace goes on daily fast. Chinese community celebrates the Lunar New Year for 15 days in January/February with sumptuous feast. It is also the time to offer gifts to youngsters, given mostly in a red packet, the ang pow, containing money that symbolizes health and prosperity. It is not surprising that with all the blessings and the ang pow, Brunei is keeping up to its name!!

What you should know

Getting around: It is easy __ with the innumerable metered, self or chauffeur-driven taxis and buses that operate regular-as-clockwork from 6.30 am. Airport taxis and taxis in most hotels and shopping centers are available. Fares are metered. Tipping is optional. Water taxi services are available to Kampong Ayer, with stations at Jalan Kianggeh and Jalan McArthur. Fares are negotiable. Regular water taxi and boat services also ply between Bandar Seri Begawan and Bangar (in Temburong), Limbang (in Sarawak), Labuan and some towns in the Malaysian state of Sabah. City tour packages are also available.

Food: They come in many styles such as the hawker-style, stand up or sit down, walk-about, indoor, outdoor and even steamboat-style!! Take your pick. Hawker centers offer fine local delicacies at very reasonable prices. Here you can find everything including satay, noodles, rice, whole roasted chickens, grilled fish and steamboats. A leisurely walk along the Brunei River in downtown Bandar Seri Begawan with a take-away sushi can make it taste like heaven. The Persiaran Damuan Park on Jalan Tutong is famous for its steamboat-dinners. The indoor hawker centre in Gadong offers a variety of food from the Far East to the Orient. Fast food has caught on. Pizza Hut, KFC and MacDonalds all have outlets in the city and at Jerudong Park. Jollibee, Sugar Bun and Express Burger are local equivalents. Public sale and consumption of alcohol is prohibited by law and restaurants do not sell alcohol.

Stay: Currency is Brunei dollars. Accommodations to suit all budgets are available the lowest being USD 10 (does not come with any assured safety for your bags) and highest USD 300.

Visa/Travel: Required by all except for US nationals (up to 90 days); UK, Germany and Greece nationals (up to 30 days), Belgium, Denmark, France, Italy, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Canada, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Liechtenstein, Maldives, Norway, Philippines, Switzerland and Thai nationals (up to 14 days). Brunei is connected by air to almost all the countries. You can also arrive by road from Sarawak.

Religion: Two-thirds of population is of Malay origin, the important minority ethnic group being Chinese.

Season: Brunei doesn't have marked wet and dry seasons making it tourist friendly at all times.