The Backpacker

This is the closest you can get to a mountain without actually climbing it. Well, many like to keep it that way, I did too, but it was when climbing mountains did not feature prominently on my list of priorities.

Once in Darjeeling, it is a crime for any visitor to miss the Toy Train. It is a wonderful way to see and feel the hills. Nestling in the foothills of the Himalayas (north east India) with the Mt Kanchanjunga looking down lovingly upon the bright green tea gardens, it can best be described “enchanting.” I have not figured out what I loved more__ the train, the green or the mountains.

But what I did love was riding on the engine!! Oh, people here do it all the time. Here it is not something to be proud of. You can sip tea and chat with the driver as the engine smokes and groans uphill. Or you can do a jig on the top of the train. If you are not properly clothed, it helps keeps the body warm.

This tiny wonder begins at New Jalpaiguri in the warm plains. Best to start here and make your way up 90 km to Darjeeling. There are numerous stations along the way, all small and picturesque, but the Pagla Jhora (Mad Torrent) took the cake.

Here the tiny train stopped for water. Not to be outdone, people got off too, in a mad rush to get to the fiery torrents. The driver told me in the monsoons the stream swelled up and was capable of washing off the train and the railway line itself. He told me how he had once nearly been swept away when he stepped into the stream for a wash. I believed him. I dislike unpredictable, destructive streams too and did not venture near it.

Twice I raced with the school children alongside the train and lost while the train continued on its way. The children skipped school to pit themselves against the train which moves roughly at the speed of 10 kmph and win every time. I wondered if all they had to do was put the train to shame, they might have raced the Shatabdi in the plains. But the toy train, mature with age and experience, continued its way slowly unmindful when people got off and went away to buy tea and re boarded it at their own pace.

I did that thrice without once missing it. Then it dawned upon me that I was walking alongside the rain more than riding in it. Finally I sat by the engine and spoke to the driver. We passed through Senchel Reserve forest with oaks, chestnuts, walnuts, magnolias, rhododendrons. Nothing can beat the beauty of flowers in bloom. Here is the Tiger Hill with the best view of the sunrise, but I got there only a day later. The scenery is ‘breathtakingly’ beautiful. When I craned my neck to see the bottom of a ravine and could not see it, I knew what that word meant. It shakes your belief in the English word. Here you learn to associate the word with ‘fear’ too.

The train is also pretty accommodative. As it passes Jorebunglow, a small town, the roads are narrow with traffic jams and the nice train stops to let it pass and sometimes even backs up a little. A well taught lessen in humility, I thought. It was after this we reached Ghoom the highest point of the journey at 2260 m before beginning the descent to Darjeeling.

Darjeeling: The best place to have TEA. What more. Every journey is rendered unforgettable when there is good potable tea. Here in the cradle of tea destination, I had no complaints. It was cold that November evening and luckily accommodation was available. If the heaters in the lodges do not work, you can walk around the whole night, not because there is nothing to take you from point A to B except your feet, but because if you are looking for someone to set the heater right, you are looking in the wrong place. Even in the worst of times, no one comes along to help. At best you can get another blanket.

But take my word. Darjeeling is mind blowing. Darjeeling is beautiful.

Walking is the best options here, you head nowhere unless you are climbing up or climbing down. There is nowhere else to go. Also here I visited the Buddhist monastery for the very first time. Suffice to say I considered this a very important step in eternal salvation!!!

The Mall Road (I note with satisfaction that all hill stations in India have one) are alive with colourful prayer flags fluttering in the cold winds. That lends an aura of peace and does much for the tired soul.

From here the mountains appear to be within touching distance. But do not begin walking towards it. Easier it would be to walk the tea garden and imagine the stars of Indian cinema sing their way into the hearts of delicate heroines. You can do that too, there is something about the air that will make you want to do so.

However do not scare the women picking tea leaves. It is bad for the TEA!!!

How to get there:

Air: Kolkata or New Delhi to Bagdogra and from there by taxi or jeep.

Train: Kolkata (Sealdah station) to New Jalpaiguri. Jeep/taxi or Toy Train to Darjeeling.